The diameter is, of course, not the only metric we pay attention to. We greatly prefer thin watches at Timeless, to the point that we often find ourselves using manual wind movements over automatics. Of course, there’s no way we’d skip using the El Primero, so that wasn’t a viable option, yet it is a testament to the engineering of a movement from 1969 that the watch only had to be 13.75mm thick. That’s hardly an ultra-thin, but in an era when even ordinary three hand watches are frequently 14mm or more, it remains impressive.The El Primero movement is, by far, the biggest change to the A273 source material. The A273, wonderful as it was, was powered by a more common, from a technical standpoint, manually wound movement. The El Primero, conversely, is not just a good movement, it’s a true legend. It is easily among the two best known chronograph movements in the world, the other being the highly respected, although less prestigious, 7750. There are many reasons that the El Primero has stood the test of time where so few other movements have. The first is the feature by which it derives its name, specifically that it’s the first automatic chronograph.
The Elite collection welcomes a new model that enables its wearer to change the colour of time. Yellow, apple green, turquoise and red versions appear housed in a 33 mm diameter stainless steel case with diamond-set bezel that are water-resistant to 50 metres and fitted with a fluted crown enabling smooth moon-phase adjustments. The heart of the new Elite Lady Moonphase beats to the rhythm of the automatic Elite Calibre 692. Endowed with a more than 50-hour power reserve, this ultra-thin movement operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and comprising 195 parts – while measuring an exceptionally slim 3.97 mm – powers indications of the hours, minutes, small seconds and moon phases.
This stylish and exquisitely feminine interpretation of the Elite Lady Moonphase is fitted with a yellow, apple green, turquoise or red alligator leather strap featuring a protective rubber lining and secured by a stainless-steel pin buckle.