The Traditionnelle tourbillon watch is a new milestone in the history of the Maison, since its 41 mm-diameter case in 18K 5N pink gold houses the first self-winding movement developed by Vacheron Constantin. In addition to the elegance of its openworked carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, the emblem of the Manufacture, Caliber 2160 is distinguished by its slimness: this ultra-thin 188-part movement endowed with an approximately 80-hour power reserve measures just 5.65 mm thick. Its relatively sedate frequency (2.5 Hz), along with its 22K gold peripheral oscillating weight, provide a chance to admire the steady beating of its mechanism and the exceptional level of traditional finishing visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The bar of the tourbillon carriage is entirely hand-bevelled, a craftsmanship operation that takes almost 12 hours for this component alone.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon © Vacheron Constantin
Calibre 2160 © Vacheron Constantin
The new Traditionnelle tourbillon timepiece displays the hours and minutes with central hands, while the small seconds appear at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon, framed by an opaline silver-toned dial graced with gold hour-markers and bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands. The timepiece is fitted with a hand-stitched, brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator inner shell and 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp.
Vacheron Constantin has chosen to highlight the Traditionnelle Tourbillon by creating an exclusive Collection Excellence Platine edition. Through this concept launched in 2006, the Maison offers collectors exceptional watches, ranging from the simplest to the most complicated and issued in limited editions. The aesthetic signature of this prestigious range is the 950 platinum attiring the case, the sand-blasted dial bearing the secret “Pt950” inscription between 4 and 5 o’clock, as well as the folding clasp. The dark blue alligator leather strap is hand-stitched with 950 platinum and silk threads. The Traditionnelle tourbillon watch is issued in 25-piece individually numbered edition.
Thus, arguably the most valuable component of this Royal Oak and Nautilus watches is they are comparatively reliable signs of riches, and they are reliably recognized. This means that any watch seeking to earnestly compete with these titans of pricey steel should be equally distinctive and easy to comprehend, in addition to controlled enough at the market to receive costs close to (or over) the retail price. Each one of these elements is directly-related to the capability of the watch for an authentic luxury object, in addition to an authentic announcement to the world of being a famous luxury object.How will the upgraded Vacheron Constantin Overseas watch fare compared to I will not focus on price resiliency as the set remains a bit too new, and the whole business is facing a distribution and pricing crisis. That would be a conversation for another time. The short answer is that while I am certain that various areas of the world have slightly differing prices for the Overseas, it is still a high-end watch with a price to match. The question is whether people recognize it as such.While Vacheron Constantin has been careful to maintain the Overseas’ signature bezel and bracelet layout, I am not sure it’s sufficient to listen to the group visually from onlookers. That means individuals wearing it with the intent of showing off it, may find it much harder to come across familiar eyes than when they wore the competition. Obviously, it is not like Vacheron Constantin has marketed the Overseas in any appreciable manner – so section of this reality is to be expected.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine © Vacheron Constantin